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Secret
of Greatness
Of the hundreds
of thousands of good surfers around the world there
are only a few who become great. How does a good surfer
become great? What does it take to become a great surfer?
Is there a secret to attaining greatness? Could it be
above average physical ability, skill, balance, strength
and coordination? How about white hot desire to be the
best combined with top professional training? While
all of these wonderful qualities do go into the making
of good surfers to become great requires something more.
Transcend limitations while increasing physical and
mental capabilities by following the same formula good
surfers use to become great surfers?Dedication, Discipline,
Sacrifice and most importantly Unconditional Love.
Hard work pays
off. Becoming great at something is not something that
happens over night. It is not something most great people
aspire to rather it is something that happens along
the way. World champion professional surfers such as
Kelly Slater, Barton Lynch, Shaun Thompson, Felipe Pomar,
Lisa Anderson and others are genuinely dedicated surfers
who have put in the time and the effort it takes to
become great. These guys catch more waves in a week
than many surfers catch in a year. They have put the
time in it takes to become great and their surfing shows
it.
It is no secret
that to get good at surfing one has to catch a lot of
waves; to become great one catches a lot of waves over
and over again, week after week, year after year. If
Felipe Pomar one of the very first world champion surfers
put the same amount of time he has invested in surfing,
forty years plus, into say music he would no doubt be
a master of the highest level. Put Pomarfs surfing
time accumulation into schooling and he would be a PHD
many times over. Likewise if Indian maestro Ravi Shankar
traded his forty plus years of playing music with the
sitar for forty years of non stop surfing chances are
he would have become one of the greatest all time surfers.
When one remains dedicated to something an such as surfing,
music, study or other activity they stick to it by putting
in the time it takes to come out with the best results.
Great surfers,
athletes, musicians, scholars and more are greatly disciplined
people. Being a professional surfer requires a lot of
travel and surfing at many different beaches in many
different climates and conditions. Waves are not always
a perfect 3 to 5 feet with warm water and sunny days.
World-class surfers such as Bruce Irons and Jamie Sterling
became great by having the discipline to surf all waves
high or low quality in all conditions winter, spring,
summer and fall. Irons a top pro and Sterling a veteran
big wave surfer in his early twenties have more than
likely spent more time surfing in windy low quality
wave conditions than most surfers have spent surfing,
itfs no surprise when the waves are good they surf
great.
Tom Curren is a former professional world surfing champion
and a great surfer. His ability to ride waves is to
this day considered nothing short of phenomenal. Almost
every surfer from around the world has heard of him.
Many of todayfs top elite pros site Curren as a primary
influence. Curren has inspired thousands of surfers
to dig deeper, raise performance levels and be the best
they can be. No doubt sacrifice, handwork and willingness
to get the job done played a major role in his rise
to greatness as a surfer. When Curren was reigning champion
there was not the money in surfing that there is today.
Curren gave up a promising future in financial fields
of his choice to become great at surfing. Those who
become great must sacrifice something in exchange along
the way; sometimes itfs time, energy or even financial
security.
Above all unconditional
all consuming boundless love is the foremost important
ingredient that changes all good performers into great
performers. Great surfers surf with full tilt passion
putting their whole essence, body, mind and soul into
every wave they ride gfeeling every move?E Surfers
who feed off fame and glory will never become great;
theirs will be a different fleeting reward. If they
do not win a contest or get a picture published in a
surfing magazine their enthusiasm wanes. The surfer
who truly loves surfing keeps surfing purely because
of a great love of surfing. Unconditional love takes
a routine activity and changes it into a magnificent
activity. The seed of which all great performance sprouts
is pure, honest, unconditional love.
Like great
surfers we all have the ability to become great at anything
from being the best parent to being the best surfer
when we truly love doing what we do. Someone who feels
passionate about something will remain dedicated to
attain excellence and they will succeed. Those who remain
disciplined because they are passionate will experience
uncommon results rarely seen for they will be made strong.
Great sacrifice brings great reward as well as great
humility. Love what you do and do what you love, you
will become naturally dedicated, disciplined, willing
to sacrifice and work hard, there in is the secret to
greatness. Sea you in the surf.
Come, Live the Life
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