|
Swamis
Way back when (pre California Surfing)
Noonans point lay quietly nestled off Encinitas.A beautiful
pristine sea bluff forging out into the Pacific Ocean.
Among the inhabitants occupying the reef below where
hordes of abalone, lobsters,dolphins and fish of all
kinds.
It wasn't until the mid 40's that James
Lynn purchased the jutting land mass as a gift for his
Guru Parmahansa Yogananda.Yogananda had felt something
special when he had visited earlier and fell in love
with this area. He desired to have an ashram (church)
built here which he did calling it the Self Realization
Fellowship.
As time went on early surfers discovered
that the waves breaking off the point were some of the
best quality for miles around. It was these early surfers
who aptly named the waves and the beach Swamii's's in
reference to Yogananda's ashram above on the cliff top.
With some of the worlds most perfectly shaped waves
and ultra long rides, Swamii's's was destined to become
a world class surfing spot. In fact this year Surfer
magazine voted Encinitas as the premier place to live
and surf.
Swamii's's long, soft, and shapely waves
were the main reason along with being located in an
affordable health conscious coastal town with a good
economy such as Encinitas. Over the years many good
surfers have honed their skills surfing the seemingly
never ending right hand waves this point has to offer.
Dr. Mark Brolaski has shown many a young grom how to
"rip" the wave with surfing performances border
lining amazing. So has Billy Irwin a local tradesman,
pro Cheer Crithlow, long timer Bob Anderson and master
craftsman surfer/shaper Steve Clark.
Several Swamii's's locals have gone
on to become some of the best big wave surfers the world
has to offer starting with Rusty Miller who in the 60's
made a huge impact riding the giant waves of Hawaii.
Ken Bradshaw, Milton Willis and Michael Willis co hold
the world record for surfing the largest waves ever
recorded (1998 off of Oahu). Also Brad Gerlach who pioneered
the behemoth waves of the Cortez banks 100 miles off
the coast of California.
Although primarily thought of as an
advanced surfing spot with it's perfect shape, easy
rollers and channel to paddle out through Swamii's's
is actually a fantastic wave for advanced beginners
and intermediate surfers. This explains why not only
is it one of the best waves around it's also a lot of
times one of the most crowded. Fortunately there seems
to always be enough waves for everyone including some
of the monks that currently live above at the ashram.
Father Keith tells us the monks go out
real early to avoid the crowds. So the next time you
happen to be driving along the coast past Swamii's remember
this:the majority of surfers from around the world have
heard of it, seen pictures of it, and long to see and
experience it. As for Encinitas, Swamii's's is out our
back door.Just as the surfers say" The west is
the best ---- lucky we live here!"
back to top >>
|