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Thinking About Surfing
Why
is it when the waves become the largest and most challenging
the amount of surfers surfing them is generally the
smallest? Everyone has small waves as well as tidal
waves in their personal lives to ride. What is a small
wave to one man is a tidal wave to another. There are
those who posses the knowledge of what to do but lack
faith. There are also those who posses faith but lack
knowledge (usually the most dangerous). Finally there
are those who have both knowledge and faith, but no
action. Smart surfers know real breakthroughs and major
accomplishments like great tube rides and the big moments
in life happen when accurate knowledge, clear-sighted
faith and decisive action are assembled in precise unity.
A wavefs surface is supported and defined by the underlying
reef below. The contour of the ocean floor with its
various depths and textures support the weight of the
water and has an effect on the power, shape and direction
of a wave. Knowledge is the reef of which the waves
of accomplishment break over. Knowledge has equally
as profound effect on life as the ocean reef does on
the waves. When you know what you are doing you will
have a better chance of accomplishment and success when
riding a wave.
A surfboard shaper with a knowledgeable plan is able
to shape a perfectly designed surfboard with smooth
clean flawless curves he knows will ride great. Another
man who knows what to do but constantly second guesses
himself and doubts in his ability to shape a superior
riding board tries to shape a perfectly designed surfboard
but doesnft have the faith to get the job done. The
results are rough, inconsistent, bumpy curves that ride
odd at best. The difference in success here is the "know
how" and the faith it takes to accomplish the task.
Alas, knowledge alone is not enough to assure a shapers
success. It takes faith in an idea, faith in the knowledge
of what is being shaped and faith in ones self. What
about faith without knowledge?
There is a wave renowned the world over as one of Surfingfs
greatest challenges called the Banzai Pipeline in Hawaii.
Generally Pipeline is reserved for only the most experienced
and talented surfers who have accumulated a great deal
of surfing knowledge. One day a very skilled Brazilian
surfer named Fabio found his way down to Pipeline. Watching
from the shore the waves of Pipeline did not look that
menacing or difficult to ride to this young surfer.
After all everyone else was doing it and it looked easy,
maybe he would even get his picture taken.
As
a few of the pipeline regulars came in, he looked over
at them and felt he actually was a better surfer than
they were. He reasoned if they could do it so could
he. Armed with confidence and unrelenting faith Fabio
took action and paddled out with out knowing one thing
about surfing pipeline beforehand, but he did know with
unshakable faith he would succeed.
W r o n gc.! On Fabiofs first attempt he did not even
make it down the face of the wave. Wrong board, wrong
wave selection, wrong choice to go out, Fabio ended
up getting pitched over the falls resulting in loosing
his front teeth, breaking his board and having to be
rescued. Fabio had the faith and courage to surf pipeline
successfully, unfortunately he lacked the knowledge
to succeed and didnft seek it before leaving the safety
of the beach.
Faith with out knowledge can be disastrous. Many people
remember a story of the little train that succeeded
by internally affirming, gI think I can, I think I
can.h This affirmation works well in stories and fairy
tails but in real life it could get someone into serious
trouble. Blind faith combined with action and an absence
of accurate knowledge can be extremely perilous to ones
self and other innocent, unsuspecting people.
When accurate knowledge and faith combine with right
action miracles happen. Suddenly the seemingly impossible
waves to ride become possible. Seemingly impossible
breakthroughs in surfboard design and technology as
well as all endeavors become reality.
Not to long ago just about every surfboard around had
only one fin. Somewhere along the way a big, blond,
beer drinking bloke named Simon Anderson decided to
add two extra fins, sort of like a training wheel set
up for a toddlers bicycle. Simon an Australian professional
surfer had an idea for a potentially higher performance
surfboard. Anderson was not the first to think about
putting three fins on a surfboard, but he was the first
person to put all of the elements together to make it
work.
Others before him did believe in the three-fin design
and have the faith of Anderson but didnft act on it.
With knowledge of the multi fin idea, faith that this
would be a significant improvement, and finally the
courage to act on his idea Simon Anderson's credibility
as surfboard designer and champion surfer were on the
line as he put his experience and theories to the test.
The rest is history.
Simon went on to introduce and prove his design to the
world by winning several international surfing contests
in a row including the famous Pipe Masters in Hawaii.
Today
three finned surfboards are as common as single finned
surfboards and the design has gone on to influence surfers
and surfboard shapers worldwide. Every surfer who has
ever ridden the popular design owes a debt of gratitude
to the knowledge, faith and actions that Simon Anderson
used to turn this idea into reality.
Many surfers have the knowledge, ability, and faith
to surf large waves but just canft seem to fully commit
to get out there and ride some. Facing any wave can
be intimidating, even for those who posses great knowledge
and faith. Getting into the waves can seem difficult
but it is actually as easy as just getting off the beach,
putting one hand over the other paddling out. With knowledge,
faith and action even the largest wave can be ridden.
Surfers say, gAt the beach all the elements are present
for a great ride, we just have to put them together.h
You can un-harness your potential for a great ride and
experience miracles right now in this moment like a
surfer in the tube by combining accurate knowledge,
clear-sighted faith and decisive right action. Aloha,
sea you in the surf.
The
Willis Bros. are surfing experts recognized for surfing
the worlds largest waves and teaching thousands in Hawaii
and California to surf.
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